When signing up for a revegetation project in
Nogales, Sonora, Mexico, I didn't know what to expect.
Maybe a few hours planting in the sun and then a chance
to explore the local shops looking for souvenirs, but the
trip turned out to be completely different.
In fact, we did not actually participate in the revegetation
project because the Nogales Sonora Municipal government assigned
our group to kilometer 23. However, Mexican law only allows
you to enter 21 kilometers into Mexico unless you have a visa
or Tourist Card, which some the members of our party did not
have. In the words of Carol Bender, it "was shaping up
to be a true Nogales experience."
We departed from the University of Arizona at roughly 7:30
am. The group included our guide Sara Curtin-Mosher, a graduate
student affiliated with the Ambos
Nogales Revegetation Project (ARAN), who spends a great deal of time working in Nogales,
eight UBRP students, and Carol.
Upon arrival in the city, it was surprising to see how densely
packed the area was. However, the majority of our day was not
spent in the city, for our activities we traveled further into
Mexico -- to areas beyond the city center where many of the
citizens make their homes. Not far from the U.S. border the
roads turn into narrow dirt alleys barely big enough for one
car to move through safely, let alone two. Then add all the
cars parked along the sides of the road, and it makes for a
very interesting driving situation! It was easy to tell that
the area was poverty stricken, made apparent by the lack of
access to running water or electricity. In my mind these conditions
would most likely foster discontent and a sense of loathing,
but this was not the case. Everyone was extremely friendly
and would wave at the van as we drove past. Some of the residents
would even practice their English with us, asking us how we
were doing.
The first house we visited was the home of a woman who was
one of the first to begin composting, a project ARAN is trying
to expand. In a true show of hospitality, our group was fed
a traditional Sonoran breakfast of eggs, beans, and bacon on
a tortilla, all washed down with fresh squeezed lemonade. After
our breakfast, we walked to where a meeting of composters was
to be held, however the meeting had started an hour earlier
and was finished by the time we arrived! Our first experience
in how difficult communication and planning can be.
We traveled further into the residential area to check on another
project in which trashcans were supposed to be supplied to
an area where, at this time, there was no trash service.
From
the top of the hill it was easy to see why the focus is trash
cleanup in this area. There was trash littering every hillside
and crevice as far as the eye could see. Another thing we noticed
when traveling up the hill into the next area was that the
houses were not as permanent as those at the bottom of the
hill. They tended to be made of wood rather than cinderblocks
like the homes at the lower elevation. We were told that this
was because people at the higher elevation had been there for
less time and that as a family stayed in an area longer they
invested more into their home making it more permanent. Once
again everyone was full of smiles and waves for us as we walked
down the narrow streets, despite what many would consider even
worse conditions than we had seen earlier.
After a brief visit to an established green area, improved
by a revegetation project in the neighborhood, we traveled
to another part of town to work on the papercrete project.
This project is a push to develop an inexpensive alternative
construction material that would use less concrete by mixing
paper, a little sand, a little concrete, and water to produce
blocks or poured walls for building dwellings. The material
was a great deal lighter than concrete but apparently held
up against the weather, including better insulation from the
cold and stability in the rain. However, once again our efforts
to help were foiled by communication difficulties. When we
arrived at the construction site, the man, whose home we were
to work on, was not there (his family was but they were less
knowledgeable about the process) so we could not proceed.
Finally, while the van waited in line for two hours to cross
the border back into the U.S. Carol gave the students a guided
tour of downtown Nogales. We were able to haggle with the stall
owners, visit a Mexican candy shop, and were all amazed by
how inexpensive the tacos were at an open-air restaurant! Just
before crossing the border we saw the wall that lines the border
from the Mexican side. The wall bears a white cross for the
people who try to cross the border but succumb to the harsh
desert. The number of crosses was astonishing and gave a new
perspective as to how desperate some people are to escape poverty
in Mexico and attempt to gain a better life in the U.S.
The trip back gave us all a well-needed rest after walking
around in the heat all day. Half of us fell asleep while the
other half talked with Sara about what its like to work on
the border and also about the problems and possible ways to
reduce illegal immigration. I was in the sleeping group!
Greg Ratti, Visiting UBRPer from Washington & Jefferson
College, Washington, Pennsylvania, working in Dr. Carol Dieckmann's
lab, Biochemistry & Molecular Biophysics.